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Monday, July 18, 2011

Winter Mushroom Hunt in Ballarat. . .



Less than 3kms from the heart of Ballarat lies
Black Hill, ravaged and gouged by frantic

mining during the Goldrush, now a haven of sorts including for black cockatoos who flock to Black Hill's pine trees in their dozens.

And while the evidence of a cockatoo's feast is often scattered at the base of the pine trees - I recently discovered what I call 'pine mushrooms' and my sister (the field biologist) calls 'Saffron Milk Caps' or 'lactarius deliciosus' growing happily beneath the Black Hill pines.


Last winter we had several successful mushroom picking trips in the Creswick and Wombat Forest area - but to find tender, fresh saffron milk caps so close to home, right in the heart of Ballarat
is quite a thrill.

Food miles? A few hundred meters to my kitchen.


Science wise - if you're thinking of heading out into one of regional Victoria's pine forests to hunt for Saffron Milk Caps, I highly recommend you spend some time researching
online first or find someone familiar with this particular mushroom to guide your first journey. There are many highly toxic fungi flourishing as well - be careful.

I'm lucky to have had the guidance of my bi
ologist sister - who has also attended a Fungi Ecology Workshop with world renowned Ecologist and environmental photographer Alison Pouliot (www.alisonpouliot.com), who returns to the Goldfields most years to run workshops. Highly recommend such a workshop so you can be confident you're collecting the right ingredients, the tasty safe ones, not the toxic troublesome ones. Saffron Milk Caps naturally acquire a coppery green tinge as they ripen.Look for small to medium size vibrant orange caps, which are often hidden under pine needles.

Even a small haul of these delicious mushrooms will be enough to whip up a worthy dish with. They are somehow crunchy yet tender when cooked gently - simple recipes work best for me.





BRAISED SAFFRON MILK CAPS
for TOAST, PASTA
or RISOTTO


Multiply this recipe according to the size of your mushroom haul. This portion serves two.
For the vegan version of this recipe use olive oil not butter, substitue pancetta for capers and hold off on the cream at the end.


2oo grams of saffron milk caps
1 large shallot and or 1 small onion
1 spring onion
1 tablespoon of good extra virgin olive oil
2 gloves garlic or one teaspoon crushed
3 large slices (approx 30 grams) of Istra pancetta
Fresh herbs - thyme, sage and parsely (or a combination of all three).
Butter for frying
1/3 cup dry white wine or 1/4 cup of dry sherry
1/2 cup of boiling water (if needed)
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts (optional, consider the food miles).
2 tablespoons cream, sour cream or marscapone.


Brush your mushrooms clean, being extra careful to remove any hiding insects.
Discard any displaying too much bruised green flesh.

Heat oil in a heavy based fry pan and caramelize shallots, onions and spring onions.
Add a couple of tablespoons of water each time pan starts to stick to help the browning process.

When these ingredients are a deep golden colour finely chop garlic and add to the pan. Fry until golden.

Add finely diced pancetta, fry until the fat begins to render out.

Set this mixture aside.

Finely slice saffron milk caps and brown in butter in a hot pan. Fry in batches if needed for easy browning. Don't over cook them at this step.

Add onion and pancetta mixture back into the pan. Add white wine or dry sherry.
Add finely chopped herbs and toasted pine nuts (if you've decided to opt for the extra food miles - I wish I could find Australian grown pine nuts!).

Add a good grind of black pepper and salt to taste. Simmer for a few minutes until sauce reduces slightly.

If you prefer your mushrooms well cooked, add some boiling water and reduce.


Just before serving stir in 2 tablespoons or cream, sour cream or marscapone.

Serve as a bruscetta on your choice of bread. Local sour dough from Basilio in Ballarat was perfect.

Alternatively serve over pasta. I have also used these ingredients as the basis for a risotto - add any other winter vegetables you have on hand that will complement the subtle pine flavourings of the Saffron Milk Caps.


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